Trattoria Romana, perched on a corner near the Intracoastal, offers old-school style and a substantive menu. It evokes a country trattoria; no hipster cocktails here, no crazy food combos, no out-of-work actors for waiters. Service is orchestrated and food quality is top-notch; you get what you pay for. Chef Arturo Gismondi and his family, who hail from Sora, south of Rome, have mastered the art of running not only Trattoria Romana, but also La Nouvelle Maison, Biergarten and Luff’s Fish House.
Many of Gismondi’s recipes have been handed down from his mother Gabriella. In fact, every dinner ends with a plate of Gabriella’s anise Ciambelline cookies, a specialty of Sora. It’s satisfying to know that in a world of homogenous menus created by restaurateurs afraid of not pleasing everyone, we can still find regional cuisine and family recipes.
Dinner at Trattoria Romana begins with a complimentary dish of juicy tomato salad, a pile of rustic house-made rolls, and bruschetta on focaccia for the table. If you want to follow the customs of traditional trattorias, start your dinner with selections from the Antipasto buffet. Choices include various hot and sweet salamis, grilled vegetables including asparagus, fennel and long hot peppers, plus olives, eggplant caponata, hard cheeses, fresh mozzarella and burrata. It’s a meal unto itself, but it’s only the beginning. Read my next blog for the lowdown on a fabulous dinner!
