If you want a truly casual, no-dress-code, joie de vivre experience, head up to Northwood Village in West Palm, just south of Old Northwood Historic District.. On Northwood Rd. just east of US 1, you’ll discover a small but flourishing arts district in an up-and-coming industrial zone with art studios, home décor, restaurants and a unique Bohemian presence. Parisian-born brothers Olivier and Edouard Delrieu, who opened Petanque backyard bar there about three years ago, are double-handedly reviving the street. Their second endeavor, French Grill House, and soon-to-open tapas bar, Celona, next door, join the hip Harold’s Coffee Lounge, Café Centro northern Italian and other local eateries that are bringing the micro-district a name for itself.
At French Grill House, a relaxed al fresco patio and bar (most of which is covered by a makeshift tin roof that keeps out rain) is where you’ll dine on all sorts of delicious meat, fish, vegetables…almost everything on the menu… cooked on a 10-foot outdoor wood-fired grill. A tiny 30-seat dining room adjoins, but most guests choose the courtyard option, a shout-out to country backyard cookouts in the South of France. Chef Frederic Boyer knew that a rotisserie and grill would highlight his meat, fresh fish, produce, sauces and grilled sides, like the Grilled Caesar salad with charred organic romaine, house-made dressing, anchovies and grilled baguette.
The bar at French Grill House offers a limited but well-chosen selection of beer such as excellent blonde Belgian La Chouffe and French Kronenbourg 1664, aperitifs, digestifs, and wine, primarily French. “Small plates” are meant to accompany beverages, such as savory Tapenade, a black olive-anchovy-olive oil spread (addictive!) served with grilled country bread; or charred Focaccia Bread & Gorgonzola Cream, a warm, unctuous shower of cream, gorgonzola and tarragon. The spreadable pork Paté is served in a glass like rillettes, with Dijon mustard, cornichons and grilled bread.
“Appetizers” include Beef Tartare, served with a raw quail egg to fold into the quality meat and a small salad; and double-cream Baked Brie with tarragon and saffron and grilled bread. Chicken Drums & Wings are grilled and served with a choice of sauces, while Smoky Grilled Avocado with chick peas and tomato relish puts a Mediterranean spin on things. On a chilly evening, you might want to try the Mediterranean Fish Soup, traditional Provençale style, with grilled bread croutons and house-made rouille, a garlic-saffron-cayenne mayo. It’s delicious!
Dinner at French Grill House couldn’t be more simple but the quality of the offerings is in the flavor. Grilled fish and meat entrees are served with a choice of sauce and a generous side. Fish includes Planked Salmon Filet, Grilled Tuna Steak, and the unique banana-leaf wrapped Whole Grilled Fish of the Day (recently Branzino). Meats include a 10-oz. Entrecote (Delmonico cut); a delicious Côte de Boeuf (Premium Angus Bone-In Ribeye), typically 21 or 42 oz. for two or four; Steak of the Day (hanger, skirt or flank), also terrific; Skewer of the Day (French- style pork, chicken or beef); Rack of Lamb; Grilled Duroc Pork Chop; and one-half Roasted Chicken.
Finish your feast with fresh Poire Belle Hélène or Pêche Melba, luscious Crème Brulée, dairy-free Mousse au Chocolat, or Chocolate Marquis cake with light orange sauce. Bon appetit!
