We aren’t alone amongst friends and family who love Mexico but aren’t planning a vacation there now. It’s a pity, because that nation of 32 states and over 5,000 miles of coastline has such a rich heritage of arts and culture, outdoor and ocean adventure, fabulous friendly people and 5,000+ years of rich culinary history. Oh, the food…
I’ve been in love with Mexican cuisine for almost 50 years, ever since my first trip to the wild western coast of Guerrero, the Pacific coast state where a new tourist destination, Ixtapa, was in development. We drove hours through jungle to the resort’s first high-rise. We lounged on the terrace of the charming Hotel Caracol in town, swam in the Pacific, boated to a small island for an al fresco fire-grilled fish lunch, then headed along the coast to Acapulco for a taste of big city life.
For the first time, I experienced authentic Mexican cooking that didn’t taste like anything I’d tried back in New York. Fresh ceviche from the sea that had barely time to marinate in lime juice; freshly made salsa Mexicana from local tomatoes, cilantro, onion and lime; handmade tortillas, rough, chewy and intensely “corny;” and salt-crusted margaritas that I swear have never been matched since. We weren’t served tacos, tamales, burritos — these “antojitos” are considered snacks or appetizers. Instead we had regional cuisine, sopa (a required starter for traditional Mexican dinners), shrimp or crab soup in this case; marinated or grilled seafood with chilies and garlic; and innumerable variations of ceviche. It was a revelation.
Like other destinations with distinctive, iconic cuisine – China, Italy, for example – Mexico’s food history began long ago with the indigenous Toltecs, Mayans, and Aztecs’ agriculture and foodways. Inevitably they fused with ingredients and traditions brought by invading colonial armies of Cortés in 1519. Until then, the cultures in Mesoamerica had long been cultivating copious varieties of produce, brewing chocolate beverages from roasted, ground cacao beans, harvesting chilies, vanilla beans and pumpkins, and, from as far back as 500 BCE, raising corn, grinding it and baking it into what the Spaniards dubbed “tortillas” (little cakes).
The conquering Spaniards brought domesticated pigs, introducing fat and frying into the cuisine, along with cattle and seeds for citrus, wheat, rice and onions. Along with Montezuma’s gold, the conquerors took back to Europe tomatoes, chocolate, corn, beans, squash, peanuts, berries, avocados, pineapple, chestnuts and pecans. The gold, in retrospect, was the least of the treasure.
Three hundred years later, after a lengthy war, the Spaniards were kicked out, the Republic of Mexico was established, and Texas, then part of Mexico, seceded, forming its own Republic. This triggered the Mexican Civil War, and Mexico ceded all lands north of the Rio Grande to the U.S. Mexico was in heavy debt to Spain’s arch-enemy, France, because of France’s wartime financial support; ultimately, France took control of Mexico for three years. Although France brought its fine flours and pastry-making techniques to Mexico, that wasn’t enough; Cinco de Mayo commemorates a Mexican victory over the French in 1862 as the young nation fought to regain its independence.
Mexico has major regional food styles plus many local specialties, but for the most part, you won’t find them replicated here. “Are you serious?” you’re thinking, but I can explain. If you’ve been to Italy, you know that restaurants here at home, as good as they are, are not Italian. Completely different in menu, sourced ingredients and preparation, they are Italian-American.
It’s the same with Mexican food. The “Mexican” restaurants here, from the taquerias to neighborhood joints like Rocco’s Tacos, to uptown, upscale Bakan, Cantina La Viente and Los Félix in Miami and Rosa Mexicano in Orlando, are all Mexican-American.
Produce — fresh herbs, chilies and tomatoes — water, utensils, heat sources, short-cut cooking methods –all different. Traditional Mexican cuisine requires lots of time for many stages of prep and cooking, often homemade by abuelas, who, like nonnas and bubbes, have the time to be authentic. Abuela uses 24 ingredients in her molé. Hmmm…. So, the takeaway from this is “Get over it, you’re getting Mexican-American food unless you get on a plane.” The good news is, some of it’s really delicious, too good to resist. Here are a couple of places we think do a pretty good job on flavor, presentation, quality and ambiance.
Móle Cantina Mexicana on 441 in Wellington (past Whole Foods) goes well beyond the cantina definition of a bar, with a menu that’s just the right size to avoid overwhelming patrons.
The colorful, rustic décor is in keeping with stereotypical “cantina” style and the menu offers a quartet of tacos, burritos, fajitas and enchiladas. First, order a margarita: a Classic, a Cadillac with orange brandy, a Horcharita with a coconut cinnamon shot, my fave – La Jarocha – a pineapple jalepeño margarita. This may be the most difficult part of your experience, choosing from more than a dozen. If that isn’t confusing enough, aficionados can upgrade their drink or order shots from 95 varieties of tequila (distilled, concentrated extract of steamed Blue Weber agave) plus 18 kinds of mezcal (smoky, complex flavor from fire-roasted Espadin Agave). Mexican beers pair really well with fiery, savory food.
It’s traditional to start off a meal with small, appetizing tidbits to accompany your drink. Prepared tableside, Móle Cantina’s Guacamole, with chips and fire-roasted Salsa Mexicana, is always popular, but add the 5-variety Salsa Sampler. (If you think that’s a lot, there are as many salsas as cooks. My eight Mexican cookbooks have more than 30 recipes.) Hearty Pozole soup made with hominy (large dried corn kernels) and pork, is a classic, with traditional garnishes like avocado and cilantro. If that’s too heavy, try a crunchy, juicy Jicama Salad, a sprightly Mexican native often sliced and sprinkled with lime juice and ground chili, but also perfect for salad. (In Mexico, it’s eaten after the entrée!)
Your main course will be probably be what’s considered an appetizer in Mexico: Chicken, cheese or beef Enchilada in red or green sauce (try the chicken in dark, rich móle poblano sauce); sizzling meat or cheese Fajitas with all the trimmings; a variety of soft corn Tacos including Carnitas, tender braised citrus pork; and a range of Burritos, which, when fried becomes (drumroll, please) a crispy Chimichanga.
Specialty Tacos include Al Pastor (grilled marinated pork and pineapple), Baja Fish (or shrimp), and Flautas Doradas, tightly rolled chicken or beef tacos which are fried crispy, garnished and drizzled with smoky tomatillo sauce and fine crumbles of white cotija cheese. Traditional entrees (steak, pork, shrimp) include the famous Yucatan dish, Cochinita Pibil, annatto paste- rubbed pork chunks, wrapped traditionally in banana leaves and roasted, served with pickled onions, green salsa, black beans and soft blue corn tortillas. White rice and refried or black beans come with entrees, but you might want to spend an extra dollar for the Charro (cowboy) beans with bacon and jalapeño. Finally, don’t miss Chiles Relleños, my go-to whenever I can find it: fire-roasted poblano peppers, stuffed with white Mexican cheese, battered, fried until the cheese melts and the batter crisps up, and enrobed in fire-roasted tomato sauce. Whew!
The new Naked Taco on Glades Rd. near 441 is the fourth jewel in the crown of celebrity chef Ralph Pagano, who is extending his reach soon to Wellington and Naples. While New York-based restaurateurs Lupe and Nick bring traditional-style dishes of Mexico to Móle Poblano, chef Ralph’s ‘kickass take on the taco is totally chef-inspired” (his words) at Naked Taco. So, Naked Taco is blatantly Mexican-inspired American, fusion cuisine at its best. The food and atmosphere are terrific, with no pretense of authenticity! Chef Ralph has deconstructed everyday Mexican fare and created his vision of how to eat now. House specialties include The Big Frank Crunch Wrap: an 8 oz. burger with avocado, chili aioli, caramelized onions, candied bacon and queso – all wrapped up in a tostada (toasted tortilla).
Naked Taco has a huge outdoor patio and intimate interior with a big bar, themed to Dia de los Muerto, or Day of the Dead, (a huge celebratory holiday in Mexico honoring ancestors and sharing family dinners). Menu categories are similar to Móle Poblano but the dishes are quite different. Try these standouts: For table-sharing starters, you might try Crispy Goat Cheese Bites with honey, guava sauce and spicy mango or the 48-Hour Chicharrónes, crispy marinated pork belly with mango habeñero glaze. You’ll devour the house-made tortilla chips with salsa, creamy cheesy queso, guacamole, or all three. Or, go all out for the $49 Holy Mole Guacamole – a platter of jumbo crab meat, fresh wild-caught lobster and chicharroñes.
You get the picture – not Mexican but still, authentic components of the cuisine. Mexican Fried Rice combines blackened shrimp, diced chicken, bacon, pineapple, avocado, carrot and scallion with fried rice, topping it off with a sunny-side-up egg. Creamy, Crispy, Cheesy Chicken has nothing Mexican about it but the cheese — crispy chicken cutlet topped with roasted garlic cream sauce, tomato sauce and Chihuahua cheese. Perhaps, a shout-out to Chef’s familia? Fajitas and Burritos are varied and delicious, but outstanding is the black sheep of the bunch, the Chicken Tikka Burrito: chicken, cilantro rice, [fabulous] tikka masala sauce and mango, with a side of cucumber yogurt raita.
A dozen varieties of tacos can be ordered soft, hard, naked or Chop Chop (salad). The Crispy Tempura Shrimp coats Key West Shrimp in toasted coconut, with spicy aioli, jalapeno and black sesame. Don’t miss the Duck Birria Taco (Birria Tacos filled with meat stews are all the rage) – because after the duck confit is combined with Oaxaca cheese, the taco is dipped in the stew broth, then fried. OMG!! And then, there’s buttered Maine Lobster Taco, Buffalo Fried
Chicken taco with blue cheese and celery carrot slaw… and more. Finally, try the Chicken Verde Enchiladas in a green sauce with Chihuahua cheese and lime crema. The tender dark meat chicken, seasonings are superb. Please tell us how you like old-school or new- school Mexican! Try both! Tell us at wheretoeatnextvl@gmail.com !!
