Fiolina Pasta House is a refreshing change from Italian restaurants serving what we think of as Italian cuisine when, in fact, it’s Italian-American, with emphasis on American. Fiolina focuses on conceptual authenticity in ingredients, recipes and presentation. When Chef Trabocchi authored a cookbook on his native province, Le Marche – “Italy’s Last Culinary Frontier” (between Rome and Florence on the Adriatic coast) — Food & Wine magazine described his signature style of cooking as “soulful and passionate—not pretentious.”
Fiolina feels magical, with mix-and-match floral and striped upholstery, drum-style lampshades in red/white/green, sprinkled across a large space smartly divided, each with its own personality.
Order a curated cocktail or wine, Provolone Garlic Bread with spicy Calabrese chile-tomato sauce and a shareable, artfully presented salad such as Avocado & Bibb Lettuce — two halves with plum tomatoes, sprinkled with tangy goat cheese and a unique, spicy chili dressing. Fiolina’s Mozzarella Bar offers Buffalo Mozzarella (milk of the Italian Mediterranean Buffalo) from the Campania region, Burrata di Mozzarella (pouch of mozzarella filled with creamy curds), smoked mozzarella, and Burricotta (a combo of burrata and ricotta). Salumi (Italian for charcuterie) includes 20-month aged Prosciutto, smoked Speck (cured, lightly smoked ham), and a platter including Lonza, Cosciutto, Coppa and Finochietto.
Pasta, made in-house, is what Fiolina is all about, but we must mention entrees such as the Strauss Veal Chop Parm To Share, crowned with Fior di Latte (cow’s milk) mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, tomato and crispy basil; and Grilled Branzino Puttanesca with tomato sauce, Taggiasca olives, anchovy and wild oregano.
Pasta is king here, sorted by region. From Bologna, there’s Pork Rib Tortelloni in Rosemary Crema, and Emilia-Romagna Style Pappardelle, long widenoodles, in meaty Ragu Bolognese. From Rome comes Rigatoni Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper), with sheep’s milk Pecorino cheese and crushed peppercorns. From Le Marche and Abruzzo regions comes Trabocchi’s amazing Nonna’s Potato Gnocchi, heavenly pillows afloat in a sea of shitake and porcini mushroom cream. From the Amalfi Coast comes Linguine Vongole with Littleneck and Middleneck clams, garlic and Calabrian chili (fruity chile with warm heat).; and Spicy Squid Ink Tagliatelle with Shrimp, Garlic & Oil and Burricotta cheese. Beef Short Rib Agnolotti, pasta pockets from Piedmont, are drizzled with Truffle Pesto.
Desserts are fabulous, likely because Trabocchi worked summers as a pastry chef while attending culinary school in Italy. Fiolina Tiramisu with Mascarpone cheese, Cocoa and Coffee-soaked Chocolate Sponge cake is rich yet barely sweet. Piemontese Gianduja, for lovers of chocolate and hazelnuts, delivers intense, creamy, textured layers in a slice meant to remember!.
