A fashion catalog just arrived dubbing its new styles “Retro Modern.” The same is true of much in pop culture, and dining is no different. Check out Clematis Street’s Hullabaloo (no, not that Sixties’ show with go-go dancers!) Hullabaloo is an Italian-inspired gastropub with a wood-fired stove at the heart of the menu.
Chef Fritz Cassel makes good use of it with lovely wood-oven pizzas, but the magic can best be found in eclectic appetizers such as Fire-Roasted Brussel Sprouts with bacon aoli (garlic mayo) and candied pine nuts, or Flame Roasted Bone Marrow with olive tapenade (relish), orange marmalade and grilled crostini slices. There’s Wild Mushroom Gnocchi (mini potato dumplings) with Parmesan and truffle zest, Crispy Shrimp with honey-habanero pepper aioli and avocado crema, and Italian ham-Wrapped Sea Scallops with Balsamic BBQ sauce. Nothing here is a carbon copy.
Entrees are less eclectic: Grouper Francaise sported a light, fresh lemon caper sauce. Meaty, tenderly braised Roasted Pork on (deliciously creamy) Porcini Mushroom Risotto was accented with crispy Brussels. New York Strip was expertly sourced and prepared, and a southern French-style braised Duck Ragu served over white cornmeal polenta was rich and sumptuous. Leave room for great desserts: Peanut Butter Pistachio Mud Pie, Pineapple Upside Down Cake, Bread Pudding rich with banana, walnuts, chocolate chips, caramel and creamy mascarpone, and more. Flavor is packed into every bite!
